Now I’ve already been “stuck” 6 weeks in San Juan del Sur. All of the time in September I was staying with Stephanie and we had kind of a little surfer living community. Additionally we did have an Air BnB guest for 2 days, Markus a friend of Stephanie stayed for 1 week and now since the end of September Allie is living with us. Additionally there is the cat Nieve, that is chilling the whole day and at least catches some geckos or mice. The dog of Stephanie’s friend also is there really often, which always gives us a nice evening entertainment to see the cat and dog play with each other. We also had some little baby scorpions and a flooding the other day. That was the time where I really missed the water vacuum cleaner from my old job. It never gets really boring over here.
After 6 weeks being here I already got to know some people of the town, who I sometimes see at the streets or also in the line- up. ?
I also got to know most of the “chica brava girls”, who are all really nice and also damn good surfers.??
I will miss all of you guys a lot?
Svenja and the ocean
Most of the days, depending on the tide, I took the beach shuttle to get to the surf spots, then I’ve been in the water 1.5h- 2h and got my smoothie afterwards, before I took the shuttle back home. The sun and the “work- out” in the ocean take lots of energy, that I mostly did relax in the hammock during the evenings. ?
One week I went to the ocean 6 consecutive days, which gave me a lot of muscle aches in the back. “Luckily” my board got dinged a bit, so I had to get it repaired. That meant I did have a rest of 4 days. ? As a reason of that I “unfortunately” ?missed the big swell, for which the guys have been waiting already days before to get some bigger waves (2-3m).
The day my board was fixed I thought that the big swell was gone, but I was taught differently. I went to Maderas with Steph and the waves were still that big, that it took us approx. 15 min to paddle and duck dive to the line- up. As we entered the water off from rocks, there was no option just to get taken back to the shore by the waves as you never know where the waves will take you exactly. With the stones in my back I did not want to do that?.
Arriving in the line- up we first had to take two bigger waves on the head (approx. 2m) before we could sit there and relax a bit.
This day I was really happy that I, at least, made it to the line- up and also got back to the beach save.
These experiences are really tough at this moment, but in those conditions it’s possible to learn a lot.?
I will not forget the Maderas wave that quickly, as it was differently every single day and I thought it was quite tricky, which made me learn a lot. I think I have to come back again in the future, to see that I can get it under control, more than it had me under control ?
Besides Maderas we went to Remanso a lot of times. There…… the waves don’t break that fast and steep as in Maderas. As it was bigger, the waves were also challenging. The backwash in the end was really often dragging one down a second time.
Playa Hermosa is a very beautiful long beach, where I think I got my best waves. I think those waves are not that steep and fast which made it easier to catch also bigger ones. One day I was so happy I got a really nice wave, that everybody had to watch the GoPro video 😉